Armani Prive – classy and exquisite collection of good old fashioned tailoring, with gathers and hints of drape here and there. The gowns were all about texture and dégradé, playing with the different shades of browns and even particular shades of bronze.

Bouchra Jarrar – the collection features incredibly clean lines and proportions, simple pieces with some little surprise here and there. Nothing that might be out of this world, but then again, each house creates its own signature look. I did love the play on necklines and the hints of gold on some pieces.

Chanel – Out of this world. Fall 2010 featured more than 60 looks, all of them stunning and Chanel in their own way. I loved that Lagerfeld took the suit to the next level and played with proportions: shorter sleeves, different silhouettes, different materials. The dresses? Just see for yourself. Something that a Russian princess would have worn. Amazing.

Christian Dior – clearly inspired by flowers of all shapes and colors, John Galliano delivered a cocktail of dresses and gowns that resembled nature. Silks became petals, the volume in a floor length gown worn by a model whose head was wrapped in cellophane… Galliano may have been right when he said, ”nature is the most inspiring teacher.”

Elie Saab – In my opinion, what a Real woman wears. Extremely luxurious, sophisticated, yet delicate gowns. Most in neutral tones, draped, embellished with beading, and all of the pieces screaming ‘class’… Good job, Elie.

Givenchy – Have you ever been blown away so hard you could barely understand what hit you? Ok, brace yourself. Riccardo Tisci has proved, once again, that he has earned every right to be leader of Givenchy. Loads of lace, baboon fur, ostrich feathers, most of it bleached, to gold, and the darkest color being a chocolate brown. Sources say that the skeleton lace corset was encrusted with Swarovski crystals, and that it took up to 1600 hours to put together. Amazed?

Jean Paul Gaultier - There is always a clear influence in Gaultier’s shows, it’s either cultural, historic, or from another planet. It seemed that this time it was very classic Parisian with a twist. Extended sleeves, skeleton dresses, and a flawless Dita Von Teese closing the show with the designer.

Maison Martin Margiela - Although not quite certified couture, Margiela presented his one of a kind pieces alongside the rest of the designers. The result? Brown and black, leather and fur, reconstructed works of art. Not necessarily wearable sometimes, but the thigh high boots shown here, or the all black look, represented MMM’s skill very well.

Valentino -They said it was couture for a younger audience, and they were right. All short, dropped waist, sweetheart dresses; designers might have joined the Twilight world with the fashion world. Nevertheless, it was a very soft collection that addressed the Dark Side of First Love. Neutral colors, but beautifully crafted, detailed, and for some reason, all the girls in flats. Out of 43, 4 looks were red, while the rest were black, white, ivory, etc..

This series was shot in the past few months and is entitled Cyber Tribe. Shot by Josh Olins and styled by Lucinda Chambers, it features my in a series of looks that combine engineered and animal prints, oversized neck pieces, out of this world shoes (spotted the famous McQueen heels!), and some interesting props. Extremely colorful and bold.

The latest designer to join forces with the accessible-fashion giant is Mark Fast, a British knitwear genius who is also known for being one of the first to send curvy models down the runway during London Fashion Week back when showcasing his Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Controversial? Yes. Effective? Yes.

Many may go as far as to call the five pieces a collection, some may not, but one thing is for sure: these pieces are beautiful. Knitted mini dresses and very precise beadwork make this a not-so-affordable collection though, since prices range from $160-$370. This is a high end collaboration and craftsmanship, but let’s not forget what kind of customer walks into TOPSHOP; the price is higher but I know the pieces will sell. Once you see for yourself, you’ll want to get your hands on one of these knitted beauties.

I know you might be thinking “well, but that’s in Italy, I can’t pull that off here.” My answer to you is simple: Women seem to magically gravitate towards the Italian charm… It’s not so much the genes, it’s in the way they carry themselves as well. Take what you can and make these trends your own.

Handbags – The man bag isn’t just about practicality anymore. You can be confident now that you won’t look weird carrying a bag that might be bigger than usual, or even more colorful. Labels are stepping up their accessory design and proving guys with bags and shoes that they’ll love and be proud to wear.

Cropped Pants – In the indie rock band world, rolling up the pants isn’t new; however, this is going beyond black skinny jeans. Guys across the pond are taking their dress pants and dressing them down by rolling up the cuffs, throwing a bold printed shirt under it. This is all about the shoes and the shirt. Cuffed, cropped. Take notes; this is the way to do it.

The blazer – Double breasted, unbuttoned, linen, cotton, whatever color or print, there is one key piece that every man should have in his closet: a blazer. They come in many shapes and sizes, and there is no limit as to how to wear them. Rolling up the sleeves can dress it down, or you can kick things up a notch by going all out and showing people who is the true money-maker (iPad sold separately).

Double breasted…

For a funkier look…

Photos by Tommy Ton for GQ

Menswear is back! Paris and Milan were filled with good-looking men and the latest collections for Spring 2011.

It seems that menswear has become synonymous with heritage. Every collection is like a history lesson and timeline through each design houses archives. The silhouettes and designs are like artifacts; iconic and classic yet modified with a modern day twist.  Leather and knits seem to be very popular throughout the collections and every designer seems to be in agreement that monochromatic is the overall look. However, another trend that seems to be promising is color blocking.

Whatever fashion trend you boys decide to go with is up to you, but please do study these style notes…we’ll be watching!

Alexander McQueen

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Calvin Klein Collection

Comme des Garcons

Costume National

D&G

Dolce & Gabbana

Emporio Armani

Ermenegildo Zegna

Giorgio Armani

Givenchy

Gucci

Iceberg

Jil Sander

John Galliano

John Varvatos

Junya Wantabe

Kris Van Assche

Marni

Neil Barrett

Prada

Pringle of Scotland

Salvatore Ferragamo

Trussardi 1911

Versace

Z Zegna

By Diana Peron

3.1 Phillip Lim

Alexander Wang

Balenciaga

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Calvin Klein

Celine

Doo.Ri

Givenchy

J.Mendel

Lanvin

Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs

Michael Angel

Nina Ricci

Ports 1961

Preen

Proenza Schouler

Stella McCartney

The Row

Valentino

Yves Saint Laurent

By Diana Peron

All prices are set around $150, and you can find her work on Mandalynn’s site. I handpicked some styles for your viewing pleasure, style numbers are on the top for reference:

The 2011 Cruise Collections are rolling in and Burberry Prorsum is in the lead. Christopher Bailey achieved a scruffy yet luxurious look with his ruched fabrics and washed leathers. This remarkable collection is no doubted inspired by traditional military shapes and hardware.

Stretch fabrics, crocheted cotton slip dresses, trench coats and wide belts are accompanied by thigh high boots sure to make any woman feel sexy and look sizzling in these scorching creations. The collection is completed with striking 30’s and 40’s military inspired looks for the men.

The rest of the cruise collections are swaggering in and ill give you the top picks for the 2011 Cruise season. Who will sink and who will swim?

By: Diana Peron

Photographs: Style.com

If you’re in Miami on Thursday June, 17th, you have plans.

The golfwear/menswear brand has recently opened up a store in Aventura Mall (on the Bloomies wing if you want to go check it out) and they’re already lining up different events to start up big. Here’s the first:

J. Lindeberg, The W, and Grey Goose team up to help the American Cancer Society. Thursday June 17th, 8PM at WET.

2201 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL, 33139

RSVP:  JLRSVP@JLindebergusa.com

Ok, now that I got that out of the way, let me share with you a making-of video that I found while I was stalking Freja on YouTube. This is the photoshoot for Twin Magazine, shot by Boo George, directed by Natalie Spitzer, supervised by Nicola Melly, styling by Jillian Wilkins, and music by Sister – Into the Dark.

Drool on.

photos by http://www.frejabeha.blogspot.com

The absolute retard uniform. Wouldn’t have expected much else from a LMFAO fan.

Here’s the look I created, after much research, in which you can find very similar pieces for less. Enjoy and go shop!

Here is a way to get the Neil Barrett Fall 2010 look for less.

We all know that not everyone can afford Burberry Prorsum, I went shopping on Topman.com, Urbanoutfitters.com, Forever21.com, and Diesel.com, and found similar pieces for a lot more affordable prices. Hopefully this will help you when it comes to deciding what to throw on before leaving the house.

As a child in the seventies Karl Lagerfeld spent many  summers in Saint Tropez, which became the ideal location for his most recent Chanel extravaganza. The Chanel 2010/11 Cruise Collection Show was held May 11 in the Old Port in St.-Tropez where celebrities and fashion insiders were treated to an ultra-glam presentation.

Young, fun and chic both the collection and presentation were a breath of fresh air.  The sidewalk outside a patisserie made for a makeshift runway; making it crystal clear that in true Chanel style this would be no ordinary show. Models arrived by yacht with a quilted bag in one hand and heels in the other as they strolled down the ‘runway’ barefoot. The usual robotic attitudes and lack of emotion we usually see from these super models were replaced by charisma and theatrics. Encouraged to be themselves they mischievously walked down the sidewalk and through the patisserie with a hint of flirtation and confidence.

Master of design and innovation Karl Lagerfeld manages to inspire and create the trends for every season. As temperatures drop and vacations begin you can expect to see more playful and feminine trends come about. With ingredients like pale colors, organza, appliqué, tweed, and denim he cooked up a delicious collection that is sure to arouse the free-spirited jet setter  in all of us and keep us craving for more.

CHANEL Cruise 2011

Georgia May Jagger and Sébastien Jondeau

By: Diana Peron

Photographs: Style.com

Mercedes Benz is always ahead of the game when it comes to design and technology. Teaming up with renowned fashion designer Gareth Pugh and genius photographer Nick Knight for an upcoming ad campaign, featuring the Mercedes-Benz’s new SLS AMG, is a match made in advertisement heaven. Gareth Pugh is one of my favorite designers and he definitely did not let any of his many followers down with this one-of-a-kind creation. I for see that this is the beginning of many unusual pairings and creative collaborations between the fashion industry and any other industry out there.

By: Diana Peron

Photographs: Hypebeast

Check the captions to see who what what.

Polished, tailored and chic was the first impression I had of the Paris street fashion. However, this was just the first impression. It takes a lot to look as perfect as these cast-members do. They take essential ingredients for the season, such as knits, furs, velvet and leather, and put them all together in one spectacular ensemble. Instead of taking key pieces from the runway they take the full look creating a lusciously layered formula that seems to work.

This ultra chic opulence doesn’t come cheap. Luster and luxury are key, and the “fashionistas” of Paris don’t believe in being frugal. What they do believe in is investment. Investment pieces are those pieces that are expensive, but worth it. They value high quality, craftsmanship and high quality fabrics with a particular focus on uniqueness.

Everything from clothes, to shoes, to bags is understated with a twist. In the United States, you can go from boutique to boutique finding the exact same brands and styles at each, but in Paris there is great importance on being distinctive and beyond comparison.  Walking the streets of Les Marais you will find a mix of up and coming designers, luxury brands, and vintage apparel. If you’re looking for the “cool kids” or the retro chic you can find them at either Les Marais or the area surrounding Etienne Marcel.  At the center of this area is one of the most acclaimed vintage stores, Kiliwatch. Here you will find an equal balance between locals and tourists looking for unmatched one of a kind pieces. Unlike many used clothing shops, Kiliwatch selects its pieces carefully, looking for quality and stylish cuts which explain why it has become the “it” place with fashion seekers.

Taken as a whole, my view of Paris street fashion is one of relaxed luxury. The beautiful ensembles that fill the sidewalks are layered with lush fabrics, distinctive textures, shapes, and cuts. The ‘I just rolled out of bed’ look is over, its time to start thinking like a Parisian and live life like it’s a show.

By: Diana Peron

Shot by Tommy Ton: Style.com

Shot by Tommy Ton: Style.com

Shot by Tommy Ton: Style.com

Shot by Tommy Ton: Style.com

Shot by Tommy Ton: Style.com

Each piece is handmade, unique, and has a meaning of its own. This promising duo works from South Beach, and I visited the place to see what they were putting together. I found the most exquisite scraps of metal, mini telescopes, bow and arrow pieces, and basically, items that I had never seen in my life. Cool bonus points for that.

The dreamcatcher concept was also interesting. It’s about a flow of energy and about channeling positive vibes, and catching that spirit on a piece of jewelry. I personally like how the chains are different shapes and metals, some sterling silver, some gold, and more.

You can find HOWL pieces at Nightowl (located at the 55th Street Station, Miami, FL) and online at HandleOnlyWithLove. Their items range from $250 to $650 for the bigger, more intricate pieces, and, I have to say, there is a plenty for everyone and, like Tini mentioned, “not one piece is alike. Every person that sees them likes a different one.”

Better catch on to this before it blows up. Alessandra Ambosio was seen sporting her own dreamcatcher at Coachella 2010.

And here are some of the necklaces for sale online, you can find more models also on their Facebook profile: Handleonlywithlove

This article is for the fashion-haters, the ones who believe this is an industry that does not help the poor or the environment. I wrote this to shed some light on the people who are using their resources to provide help to those in need and to show the skeptics that the fashion industry is not that bad guy who just doesn’t give a shit.

Liya Kebede was born in Ethiopia. She left to Paris, relocated to New York, and accomplished it all: modeling career, 2 Vogue covers, a mother of two, a philanthropist, and children’s wear designer. Her label, LemLem (which means “to bloom”), was created to preserve the art of weaving and to bring a more stable and sustainable development in her home country of Ethiopia.

LemLem was originally strictly for children, but now Liya has branched onto womenswear. Style.com spent some time with her during one of her shoots in which she explained the origins of the product, the benefits to the nation’s culture and tradition, and her desire to encourage other designers to help out others in need:

Liya Kebede – LemLem: by Style.com

LemLem’s website

Ok, one of the greatest things to do is RESEARCH. The quest to find an interesting concept that is appealing enough to indulge in the creative process. Whenever I feel stuck in no-inspiration-land, I hit the bookstores and libraries. You remember bookstores? Those places where you can find lots of pages bound and neatly stacked on shelves? Yeah, they’re still around and they hide the most precious gems of literature.

On my most recent trip to the highly underrated Barnes & Noble, I found a book that I thought would be interesting to share with those who share the same passion as I do: fashion baby, fashion. Stacked between American Designers and the House of Dior books, I found a slightly bigger book that caught my eye. Paris Vogue Covers 1920-2009 by Sonia Rachline, published by Thames & Hudson.

This is a book that has gathered incredible contributing photographers such as Man Ray, Testino, and Bourdin, among others, who have photographed Brigitte Bardot, Kate Moss, Audrey Hepburn, and more. The foreword was written by Carine Roitfeld. For those who do not know who she is, just pick up an edition of French Vogue and check out the credits. Yup, Editor-in-Chief. She has held the throne since 2001 and has recently been linked to the Balenciaga blacklist drama. Buuuut, I’m not going to go into detail about that…

Anyway, back to Paris Vogue Covers. It is my pleasure to recommend this book to all fashionettes and fashiongays, and to the straight men who are into fashion too, why not? Almost 90 years of iconic Vogue covers, under $30 at Barnes & Noble. Let me help you guys out, the ISBN number is: 9780500515136

Thank me later

Enjoy. I think it is quite obscure and interesting.

As I always say, Miami is full of underestimated talent. Armas is one of them. I am excited to work with him in the future but, for now, enjoy this editorial he shot last week and is up exclusively here.

Photography: Mario Alfonso de Armas
Styling: Mario Alfonso de Armas
Make-up: Elaine Montenegro
Hair: Sheenon Olson

It seems that acting a fool and dressing like, well, a fool too, has become a staple of March madness in this city. The stereotypical Ultra uniform checklist includes furry boots, pink light-up pacifier, metallic coochie cutter shorts, skanky fishnets, purple acrilic hair wig, and big sunnies. This makes the girls look like they’re at an average age of, umm, let’s see, 15?

Men don’t fall behind on this dreadful disaster of a trend, although, compared to the women… Well, let’s just say I can’t complain about many men jumping around with blinking lights and pacifiers; however, that does not mean they are off the hook. This 2010 WMC, the staple t-shirt message was… (wait for it…): IM IN MIAMI BITCH. Because this city isn’t inhabited by a bunch of tools already, they all had to go out and give us a massive reminder of the LMFAO disaster “song” that turned Miami into d-bag central.

If you guys don’t believe me… Here are some visuals via Miami New Times

A total of 6 designers showed that night. It was a series of collections that showed various areas of design, from girlie chic to modern and sophisticated. While most of the pieces I saw didn’t really prove to be anything too out of the ordinary, I was able to appreciate  a little purple, tailored, gorgeous set of skirt and blazer that stood out. Also, the second designer that showcased a collection of mostly black, tailored pieces that screamed sophistication and seemed like the perfect look for today’s strong woman.

Here are some of the photos shot on site by our dear Jayme Gershen. Enjoy.

Sponsored by Univision, The Webster, Tiffany & Co., and Stella Artois, among others, Miami International Fashion Week brings together designers from around the globe in a world-round showcase of trends, style and wearable art.

The shows will be held in Midtown and the organizers will offer different conferences around the area for members of the industry. For more information on this and the full schedule, click here.

After parties will take place at South Beach’s newest Klutch, SET, and MI-VI in Hallandale. Yes, Hallandale… I’m not exactly sure what they were thinking with this one.

To attend the shows or seminars, you can purchase tickets online for $25 or just show up at the venue day of, although I would strongly suggest getting them in advance.

Let’s see how many bedazzling and maxi dresses we can find this year. 15 points for each and  floral prints gets you a double score! jk… sort of. Not really.

To die for.

(photos via Ladylike)

Styling: Barbie Bertisch

Hair: Bianca D’An

Make Up: Ana Lucca

Models: Nicole Kirigin and Anthony Sypniewski

Photos via Style.com

Gianfranco Ferre was the big surprise, showing a new, edgier face with clean and sophisticated lines and throwing fur in the mix. Givenchy kept it effective, with separates that could easily be dubbed as timeless. Hermes’ color scheme blew my mind, with the turtlenecks and the use of velvet to perfection… Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano took the term ‘Fashion Show’ to the next level: JPG was all about boxing and Galliano went all out with Sherlock Holmes and Asian inspirations. I was a big fan of Lanvin’s fluidity in materials, with subtle drapery and mixed tailoring.

I was anxious to see what Maison Martin Margiela would bring to the table, since Margiela finally stepped down from the designer throne. What can I say… big disappointment. Too simple for the brand’s image and reputation. On the plus side, Neil Barrett made my ‘downtown boy’ dreams come true with the black and white ensembles. Rick Owens dazzled me, again, by designing irregular capes, dropped crotch pants, and an exceptional use of leather. Finally, Viktor & Rolf get my vote in the “Who can make the nerd look his best” competition.

And I leave you all with my final saying: PLEASE, no more snowboarding/skiing gear on the runways. I beg you, designers.

John Galliano

Gianfranco Ferre

Givenchy

Hermès

Iceberg

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jil Sander

Junya Watanabe

Kris Van Assche

Lanvin

Louis Vuitton

Maison Martin Margiela

Alexander McQueen

Moncler Gamme Bleu (Thom Browne)

Neil Barrett

Prada

Pringle of Scotland

Raf Simons

Rick Owens

Tim Hamilton

Versace

Viktor & Rolf

Yves Saint Laurent

Z Zegna

The colors are classic. A large variety of warm grays, black of course, and some bold color accents that make the pieces stand out. My favorites? The roughness in Ann Demeulemeester, the classic Burberry Prorsum look, laid back sophistication at Dior Homme, the separates at Dries Van Noten, and the mix of proportions at Etro.

Agnes B

Ann Demeulemeester

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Canali

Comme Des Garçons

Costume National

D&G

D-Squared

Dior Homme

Dolce & Gabbana

Dries Van Noten

Emporio Armani

Etro

Salvatore Ferragamo

Here are some of the people I spotted around Miami in the last two weeks.

Rolando Robinson

Alexander Castro (his DIY on the last photo)

Cherry Bomb has a little bit of everything, from leather shorts, to cozy, oversized knitted sweaters. This boutique has a nice assortment of basics, like soft, oversized tees with a zippered pocket, or black patchwork tights. During the opening, I tried on a few pieces, and I have to say, I also admired the materials. The fabrics were very soft, and the garments are well crafted, something that small boutiques sometimes struggle with.

The store is located on 1517 Alton Rd, South Beach. There is easy parking on the lot, and prices range from $40-300. Now if that isn’t enough of a reason to go, check out some pictures from the opening night, and yours truly trying on what became my first Cherry Bomb purchase.

Photography by NefariousGirl

The event took place at Addict, a store that mostly sells designer sneakers and activewear for both men and women. The designer was there to promote his new line for Adidas Originals.

Jeremy was extremely nice, and was meeting with friends Amanda Blank and Solange Knowles at the store. Turns out, I ran into him later that week at Rokbar for the I Art NY party, surprised, he said: ‘Hiii Barbieeee!” Good times. I got to chatting with Sophia Lamar, who I had met at B-bar already, along with Peter Miszuk (Stylesightings).

Here are a few looks from Jeremy Scott for Adidas Originals. Eclectic prints and bright colors, loads of imagination. This is Jeremy’s world.

Mr. Scott at ADDICT

The collection consists of graphic tees, hoodies, sneakers, and the usual Adidas track jacket.

To shop, go here: Adidas Originals Online Store

Now, let me just explain to whoever is reading and does not understand the concept of a knit: a knit is usually used for less tailored garments with fabrics that have stretch. Backlund started experimenting with three dimensional planes and was able to achieve great volume that works in great ways. Her designs are sculptured, and show Backlund’s amazing knitwear skills, as well as her extensively creative mind.

She took part in the Festival de Hyéres and has been featured in many magazines, including Vogue Nippon, Dazed and Confused, Another Magazine, Vogue Italia, Big Magazine, i-D, V Magazine, and others. Yet, I wonder… How come Miami’s fashionistas have missed this? I admit, first  time I saw this, I was blown away by the volume and Backlund’s ability to experiment with wool and construct spectacular pieces from scratch. Did I mention all of this is handmade?

Here are some of my favorites from the current collection, Control – C, and previous ones. Enjoy.

Control – C

Pool Position

Last Breath Bruises

In No Time

Ink Blot Test

Don’t Walk

Diamond Cut Diamond

Perfect Hurts

Blank Page

Body Skin and Hair

When I asked her what she was wearing, I was happy to learn that she supports Argentina’s emerging designers, Eufemia. Here she is, wearing Eufemia Summer 2010, and Ricky Sarkany shoes, which, she said “They’re so cool! The heel is removable so you can swap it for another color.”

Where to shop: Eufemia Buenos Aires, Ricky Sarkany

Back View

Blue Logan does not carry a camera around wherever he goes. Instead, he carries a sketchpad. The artist was born in London, but has crossed the pond to sketch the parties, people, and everything that happens when the sun goes down and the music is loud. He illustrates everything that happens in New York, London, Paris, and Milan.. all the way from the streets to Fashion Week, which is the reason why he was given the name “Pencil Paparazzi.”

In an interview with Vogue UK, Logan explains that one of the things that he enjoys the most is drawing the crowd before the show starts, thus capturing the excitement and essence of the ambience. I ran into him at the Standard, where he was showing his last week’s sketches in Miami, and he was nice enough to answer a few questions that I had… Personally, I very much appreciate the skill required to illustrate rather quickly. As a designer myself, I am required to sketch out my designs and I am a huge fan of quick-sketching. I love Logan’s line work and his use of color, shading, and the way he creates textures with very few materials.

Barbie Bertisch: How long ago was it that you started illustrating professionally?

Blue Logan: About 4 years ago. Although I seem to lose track of time. I could have sworn half the films I know came out 2 years ago, and its hideous to discover they were all released in ‘98.

BB: Which one was your first catwalk, if you remember, or the most memorable?

BL: The first show I drew was Aquascutum, i think. It’s hard to be precise because a Fashion Week day consists of about 10 shows for me, which is as much as I can take. It was in London though, around the time when I got to draw Nathan Jenden, Richard Nicoll, Fashion East, etc…

BB: Who’s the craziest looking person you’ve drawn?

BL: I like drawing Diane Pernet. She has this look as if she would be fabulously happy living on the death star.

(Diane Pernet is a well-known fashion journalist, head of a Shaded View on Fashion)

BB: What inspires you?

BL: People interacting. I like to see the clamour for attention, the joy of someone’s passion, for example, the happiness they radiate just to be at a Chanel show, the serious-faced reporters, the assistants, the nodding whispers of ‘who is that, again?’. There is a lot that goes on at a fashion show. This is what I’m interested in by fashion. What inspires me artistically, in and out of that arena, is lovely lines. I love drawing and working with a line. When I pull off a good line, I’m very happy.

BB: Which one is your favorite city as far as inspiration for drawing goes?

BL: Paris for fashion. anywhere for everything else.

BB: What is your favorite medium?

BL: At shows and parties, I usually end up with a bar man’s pen. I don’t really care what I use. I do love charcoal though, but I would never use it out and about.

BB: Artists you admire?

BL: Lautrec, George Grosz, Matisse, my father Peter Logan, Calder, to name but a few…

To check out Blue Logan’s site go to http://www.bluelogan.co.uk . Blue Logan is part of the RESTLESS artist group, and illustrates most Fashion Week’s events around the globe.

This one particular concept was brought to my attention a couple of weeks ago, and I have been trying to accept it… but I simply can’t. One of our local designers came up with the concept of the “New Couture Look,” creating one dress that will “be the answer to all your fashion needs.” This ‘answer’ is a black, strapless dress to which you can attach different ‘accessories’ to. Now on to the hypothetical situation…

It’s Monday night. What do I wear? The Ella1dress! What do I add to it? An emerald green, silk stretch halter with a bow on the back of the neck piece. Now I’m ready to roll.

Tuesday night: Ella1dress again, since it is the answer to all my fashion needs. This time, maybe I can attach a white silk organza off the shoulder, ruffled piece? Yeah, that will do the trick.

For Wednesday night, I’m going to wear the dress… but this time around, no one will tell that I’m wearing the same thing again because I am going to spice things up a bit. I bought the black lace shawl to tuck in the dress. It makes sense to buy only ONE dress and then purchase other additional pieces to attach to it…

By the time Thursday night comes, I can assume the dress has a certain… aroma. But, since I now have the solution to all my fashion problems, I am going to take the dress out of the closet again (if it even made it to the closet, why bother?) and attach one of the other fashion accessories that I purchased. Hmm, I go through my Ella1dress add-ons drawer and I find a red, detachable, mermaid skirt. Works just like magic! I am ready to hit the town again in my Ella1dress that has worked so well the three previous nights.

Fridays are to celebrate. So after I spent all that time in the dress throughout the week, I might have to Febreze it a little; however, it truly is the answer to all my fashion needs, since times are so tough! Maybe this time around I could attach the silver, one shoulder, stretch sequence piece. Since stretch sequence screams out couture, I will totally be dressed up for the night.

After partying hard on Friday night, I cannot help but assume that the dress is now covered in vodka-cranberry and a cigarette stench that will knock out whoever comes close… But with this economic crisis, all I need in my closet is the Ella1dress and a bunch of detachable pieces to do the trick.

Now, I could keep going with the hypothetical weekly outings scenarios but I think you can get the point that I am trying to get across. How is this considered couture? I took the time to look for the actual definition of couture, which, not only means ‘high-fashion,’ but also ‘the business of designing, making, and selling highly fashionable, usually custom-made clothing for women.’ With that in mind, I can’t help but think that this designer is slightly delusional. Who in their right minds would consider this concept to be couture?

So now I wonder, how is it that we keep blaming the lack of true talented designers on the city? I know there is a great demand for more independent, avant-garde artists and a need to break away from the usual Gables boutique, flowery maxi-dress style? How can we consider this “New Couture Look” innovative, when I have shown this design to various fashion design students from Miami International University of Art & Design and none of them were able to keep a straight face?

I think it is time for us to reconsider what we think is talent, innovation, and a solution to all our fashion needs. Yes, I do understand that economy might be tough right now, but who wants to own just one dress and have to buy accessory pieces that, if you ask me, are the farthest from what I consider high fashion. Let’s get serious people, before next year’s Funkshion, why don’t we push for the real artists, creatives, and designers? Instead of complaining repeatedly about lame, boring, unoriginal, and tacky clothing lines, we could support the innovation and application of new concepts and techniques. Being a student at the Miami International University of Art & Design, I get to see the talent firsthand (believe me, there IS talent)… It is time we start supporting the actual skilled designers. Promoting change can go a long way and maybe, Miami Fashion Week 2010 will shock us, in a good way.

FWY has already toured the country under the magic • luck • friendship philosophy, setting up installations in Vegas, Indianapolis, New York, and Miami, of course. Once you walk into Samuel and Arturo’s world, you are taken to the land where you can find characters like Mr. TTT Burger, Malf, King Albino, Shoebaca, and many more…

For Art Basel 2009, FWY has locked a space down and is opening a Flagship Store. Appealing to adults and kids, this store will sell limited edition apparel, prints, collectible toys, fine art, sculptures, and the rest of the FRIENDSWITHYOU products. I am more than excited to see what they have put together in this space, considering what these guys have done in the different cities they visited. Setting up a home for their creative project will definitely help establish the FWY magical reign over Miami, and Basel is the right time to do it.

The official store opening party will take place on Tuesday, December 1st at 6PM-10PM. The store is located at 3930 NE 2nd Ave, Suite 202. Miami, FL 33137. Be there to experience the new home to Miami’s own artists for an evening in which fine art meets consumer products!

I didn’t want to be left out of this competition, so I decided to put together a team to enter the competition. By meeting up with fellow local designer Michelle Restrepo, I was able to find the third person in the team, Gohar Rajabzadeh, also a designer. We have been getting ready and planning on putting on a good show, so you better come out to support your local fashion designers and stylists. If you are interested in participating or finding out more about the event, you can go to House of Diehl and check it out for yourselves and go to Poplife’s site.  Nevertheless, here is the main information you need to know:

What? House of Diehl’s Style Wars @ Dirty Hairy

When? Wednesday, November 4th 2009

Where? LIV at Fountainbleau. 4441 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33140

RSVP? info@epoplife.com

Barbie: how did you find out about the OBEY contest?

Brandon: First time I heard, or should I say read, about the Obey/Metropark Contest, was during my month long visit in Argentina. Being a fan of Obey and Shepard Fairey’s work, I bulked up several t-shirts and took them with me. Down in Buenos Aires, nobody had ever seen or heard about Fairey’s work or Obey, and they were all (people around me; whether at Hip Hop classes, clubs, restaurants, or at the ever-so trendy Palermo Hollywood design district) amazed and in love with the graphics and message of such designs. I was actually online shopping with my aunt, who went bananas for the t-shirts, and being a fashionista and designer herself, wanted one of each in every color. As I was showing her the different graphic tshirts being sold at Metropark online store, I came across the 3rd Annual Art Contest presented by OBEY and Metropark.

Barbie: what inspired you to apply the skull design over the OBEY stencil?

Brandon: Creating a winning design was not easy. I can create logos and stationary packages for clients or as a class assignment very fast compared to the grueling hours spent researching the subject matter. From military inspired heraldry, coats of arms, minimalistic and modern symbols, to monograms and typographical designs, the graphics on the OBEY tshirts vary tremendously. And, believe it or not, one would get to dead ends, finding that most of what you could think of, either it had been done before or did not fit the OBEY line (…) I’ve always been inspired and attracted to the juxtaposition of images, whether it is in photography, which is my medium of choice, or in graphics, I get fueled up by double exposure images and overlapping/juxtaposed images. I always tend to make my designs logo-like and very symmetrical. (STRONG BELIEVER THAT SYMMETRY=BEAUTY!). So, I started playing around with the Andre the Giant stencil-like design… I had noticed that Fairey had used skulls in other designs, but never made it an iconic element, in other words, it had appeared as the face of a subject and as part of elaborate designs, but he had never applied it so prominently. So I thought it was interesting how the skull design and the stencil design overlapped perfectly, adding depth to the ever-evolving iconic OBEY Giant design. Plus, the whole look of broken up vector art, stencil-based/originated/inspired, went great with the OBEY philosophy.

Barbie: What did you win out of the contest?

Brandon: Well, the main prize was having the tshirt design being reproduced and sold in Metropark stores nation-wide and online, as part of Obey Clothing. Aside from that, $400 cash prize/licensing fee for the winning design provided by OBEY, $300 in OBEY Merchandising, including a signed Shepard Fairey print, a Supply & Demand book and OBEY clothing, and $500 Metropark gift card provided by Metropark. There is also the possibility of attending the Grand Opening of Shepard Fairey’s new mural during this year’s Art Basel and meeting him at the event.

Barbie: Could you give any advice to fellow graphic or fashion designers in Miami?

Brandon: The single, most important piece of advice I can give fellow designers is to research and look around for such competitions or opportunities. I know that this won’t be the end of my relationship with the Obey Team. I would obviously suggest to take chances! No one ever knows what will happen once you submit your work for an art and design competition. Actually, the worst thing that could happen is to get rejected and possibly get some feedback, from which one can learn and grow.  Also, you should always be paying attention to issues and conversations around you. By eves dropping is how I ultimately got the chance to create t-shirt designs for almost every single sports team in back when I was in high school. Finally, some quick ones are to voice your opinion, and fight to be heard and seen. There’s plenty of competitions and contests out there, looking for the next big thing… All it takes is commitment and will to find that one competition that’s going to make you famous, or at least well known! Like I said before, this contest is annually… Yes, people! It’s done every year… So start sketching. I already have myself! Winner two years in a row? We will see!

GO BUY! Get the shirt here: MetroparkUSA

On Wednesday, I attended the Nicole Miller party at her boutique on 656 Collins Ave., where the press and whatever industry members are available were meeting for early cocktails and chit-chat. It was a nice environment since Miller, the designer, made a personal appearance and was in fact very social and approachable.

I got my pass, which was after all, all I had gone there for, and headed to the Eden Roc. GenArt was throwing its own little bash, and I met up with fellow Life.is writer Stian and some other friends. There were definitely more familiar faces and, shall I say, more people having fun? It must have been the Stoli open bar, or maybe Ray Milian DJing, or maybe just the laid back atmosphere, that kept the party going. I had the pleasure of hanging out with one half of the ShopBar team and then decided to take off to the Setai.

My third location for the night was a bit more chaotic. You could feel the Funkshion in the air, as the door people struggled to keep it under control and while many, myself included, wanted to get in because we actually HAD to be there. Anyway, after a few minutes, I was in. I guess I had forgotten all about the hot and sticky Miami weather while indoors at the Eden Roc, because when I got to Setai and walked outside to grab a spot, I almost died. Bad location for an extended summer, you guys. It was a mixture of body heat, lighting equipment, and just plain 80-something degree weather. One could tell that they all just wanted to see Pam Anderson, because I am pretty sure that only about half the people there had a clue of who Richie Rich is. Nevertheless, we all gathered to experience the launch of Rich’s new line, A*MUSE.

Show started not too late, although it was delayed, but we all knew that would happen. From a designer’s point of view? Hmmm, how can I be gentle about this? It wasn’t Paris, but I never expected it to be. There were a few glimpses of cool looks here and there, including a (very) bright pink sweetheart dress with a tutu under it. But that hasn’t been done before… It was all very Miami, if I dare say, but it was a show indeed. That first half of the show featured women in boy-shorts and summer dresses, and boys in what seemed to be tights; yes, tights. Second half was all about the eye candy: men with CAUTION tape wrapped around a leg or arm. The swim shorts? I think it’s safe to say that I was not very A*mused, something I would see a very muscular, very sure of his sexuality kind of guy wearing to the beach on a Saturday afternoon.

(REALLY?)

Finally, the moment they were all waiting for: Pam walks out in full on Baywatch get-up and a mask on, for some odd reason… maybe she thought we wouldn’t recognize her. Smart move. She starts trotting, or jumping, or whatever it is that she was doing. A few seconds later, she is joined by Richie, who I kinda enjoyed seeing. It might have been the skates or his all-around “I’m a proud gay man” attitude (which makes me like him a little more). They hugged as confetti dropped, danced around, took some pictures, and that was it.

A second after it was over, half the crowd was indoors already. I was happy when I got to go backstage and ran into the guys from Prive Salons, who had done the hair for the show. Here they are, all happy and feeling accomplished.

Some of the models…

Fun times… considering what I had to go through. The weekend is finally here, so I am going to give this whole Funkshion thing another try. Tonight I’ll be at BASS Museum of Art, and then later at the Setai again. Hope to see you all there!

If you also want to read about the other cities: NEW YORK, MILAN, LONDON

Balenciaga – It has become a habit for us to see Nicolas Ghesquière sweep us off our feet each and every season. This time around, he took the concept of luxury and sportswear and came up with an amazing collection of separates. It was color blocked, intelligently put together, and it featured leather hoodies, long sleeve mini-dresses, and skin tight skinny pants.

Balmain – I have to admit, it was tough to decide on just three looks out of Christophe Decarnin’s collection for Balmain… most of the clothes shown were stunning, wearable, and targeted pretty much to any woman with a passion for looking good. Much like Balenciaga, this collection was smart: separates and easy-to-wear mini dresses.

Chanel – The whole barn theme has been done the wrong way so many times before, but Lagerfeld managed to transform Grand Palais into a giant sea of hay in which models walked around and showed the beautiful creations that the house of Chanel put together for Spring/Summer 2010. Most of these in ivory, white, black, usually with opposing textures and exquisitely made and styled. The designer even showed some men’s looks which matched with the female models what wearing.

Chloe – Yawn… I am not the Chloe girl they are targeting obviously. Yeah, the clothes are pretty too look at, they are nice color palettes, but where is the innovation? The only two looks that I truly liked and thought were worth to write about were these, because it looks like something wearable and an easily sold outfit.

Comme Des Garçons –  All hail the Queen of conceptualism! Rei Kawakubo showed me once again why I keep checking out her collections. She is interesting, innovative, and always has something to surprise us. This time, she sent out models in clownish do’s, black leather shoulder braces, patchwork, intricate construction… you name it.

Costume National - Beautiful pieces were sent down the runway. These were looks inspired by the tougher girl and made for the uptown women who want a downtown look. These two looks stood out: Brown leather, finally, instead of the already-seen-everywhere black? Yes, please. And can you appreciate the gorgeous flow in this dress?

Dries Van Noten – This collection seemed like a disappointment for many, being that Dries Van Noten had found himself being highly influential for the past two seasons… but not for me. I seem to reject all sorts of printed fabrics, but this guy nailed it. The ethnic theme just worked for me, especially with the layering of different patterns and prints that clash amongst one another.

Gareth Pugh – For SS2010, it seems like the designer took the brutality down a notch or two. The materials seemed lighter and softer, and it was all nicely made in different shades of gray. Pugh used his usual structured techniques but softened the tops up with some flowing skirts, that seemed to be detachable as well. Zippers were widely used, but that’s his kind of thing… and what makes him what he is today.

Givenchy - After the immense success that the last Couture collection had, I had very high expectations for Riccardo Tisci’s SS2010 show. It’s obvious, he has brought Givenchy back on the map and established himself as one of Paris’ leaders. Being a fan of solid fabrics, I have to admit that these prints are amazing! I don’t think I can use words to describe how amazing this collection was, but the wrapping, twisting, draping, layering and overall executing of every piece was fab.

Haider Ackermann – I’ve been a Haider fan since he emerged in the fashion world with his floor-length skirts and beautifully crafted leather jackets and I have to say, he has yet to disappoint. SS2010 for Haider Ackermann will still carry that luxurious sportswear look, remove the extensive use of leather and add wrapped tops and bolero jackets. To die for.

Ann Demeulemeester - A different collection from what she had brought to the runways before. This time I saw more bare skin, but the detailing was beyond genius. Draped lapels made out of zippers? Leather vests that haunted my dreams… no joke. I am kind of glad that she decided to include some sort of print this collection, it shows her ability to change and adapt, since up until now, Demeulemeester was known for her ultimate minimalism.

Jean Paul Gaultier - It is more than evident, SS2010 will bring lingerie back, and Jean Paul being the man behind Madonna’s cone-bra, he deserves to indulge in this trend. It wasn’t subtle and it wasn’t all that classy, I have to admit, but after I looked at the pieces separately I noticed that he was not completely out of it. His collection made sense, the pieces were mostly wearable, and yes, he can still pull a cone-bra and get away with it.

Ungaro – OK, what were these people thinking when they hired La Lohan to team up with Estrella Archs and add a youthful touch to the brand? FAIL. I can’t really explain how this was so wrong in so many different levels… but the fact that I chose only two looks, white and plain, as highlights, that just says it all. The fabrics looked inexpensive, a bandeau with hearts, poorly draped necklines, skimpy little dresses, bad color combinations… I could go on forever. I am positive that coke-fiend Lindsay will not last long.

Giambattista Valli - This collection made me become a fan of his. Why? Because he showed such a broad spectrum of pieces. There were cocoon coats, textured mini-dresses, clean-cut separates, and LOADS of fringes (PS, I usually hate fringes). Two thumbs up.

Isabel Marant – at her show, it was all about those key pieces that will make your wardrobe shine without having to buy massive amounts of clothing. A jacket here, a pair of pants there, and you can find yourself with items that could be easily worn with anything, at anytime, for any ocassion.

Junya Watanabe – Just as every other designer is bringing back the lingerie and biker chick look, Junya decided to go classic. Thank you! The designer showed everything from tailored men’s jackets, to slim pants, to these two dresses that caught my eye. She took construction to a whole new level with these shirt-dresses pair over simple black tights. I also appreciate the lack of distractions: no complicated shoes, no overwhelming jewelry, just straight up design, materials, and execution.

Karl Lagerfeld – He’s always ingenious and finds ways to surprise us with something nice. But I think that this time around, I just wasn’t that impressed. Yes, there were gorgeous outfits, but I believe it was too flat. Nothing made me gasp and try to reach for a respirator, no wow pieces. I chose these three looks that represented the whole collection, as you guys can see, nothing too new or exciting. Just pretty.

Lanvin – Lanvin, on the other hand, oh wow. I can’t count the number of times that I squealed while watching this show. It was even very hard to narrow down the looks to just three. The show begun with the classic Lanvin dress (one-shouldered, satin, the definition of class), but then came the red ruffles, the asymmetrical necklines, the beautifully draped jumpsuits, and the textured fabrics layered with more textured fabrics. There is a God, his name is Alber Elbaz!

Louis Vuitton - Deconstruction? Oversized shoulders? Multi-layered skirts? Furry sandals? Tassels? Some ethnic influences, but what’s with the afro? Whatever Marc Jacobs was going for, I clearly do not understand. Now I’m not saying this was ugly or unsuccessful, I have to say that it was way too over the place for my taste.

Maison Martin Margiela - I was very sad to learn that Margiela finally left MMM, after Diesel bought the company and decided to make some changes. This collection was proof. I did not see the Margiela that blew me away in past collections, highly avant-garde and conceptual. This time around, MMM showed something – gasp! – wearable. Still looks that I loved, but a lot more concrete than expected. I guess that’s Diesel’s way of taking over.

Nina Ricci - The brand had been experiencing some important changes, since Olivier Theyskens has left and the British Peter Copping took over (He designed for LV for years). With that background information, I do believe that this was a successful collection. He got to Nina Ricci right in the nick of time: femininity, delicate lace pieces, tiered skirts, all nicely done in a soft color palette was seen throughout the show.

Rick Owens – Oh, how can I be partial? OK, here I go. Rick Owens, known for his usual darkness in both concept and palette, lightened things up for a change… and I thought I would never live to see the day this happened successfully: the man did it. Highly modern pieces like those featured below are the reason why I believe that in the future, this world will be ruled by designers such as Rick and Gareth. Beautiful, amazing… I’m starting my Hannukah gift list.

Alexander McQueen – Well, for anyone that has already checked out my post on this show… I don’t need to explain how mind-blowing this was. For those of you who didn’t, click here to see it. Have you ever been underwater and seen a whole new world of creatures, color combinations, shapes, textures, sounds, and emotions? If you haven’t, then you obviously have not seen McQueen’s SS2010.

Sharon Wauchob - She seems to have really grasped the concept of trends. The drop-crotch pants that were seen in every designer’s collection were shown in silk, while the broad shoulders were nicely executed in dresses and jackets, mixing lace and other materials to make what was a collection of very easy to wear pieces.

Sonia Rykiel -  1930s inspiration to the max. Sonya made it beautiful and fun. The yellow dress, stood out as something that I would adore to wear (and I mostly wear black), while the two piece outfit below was sexy and fun at the same time. The third look was the comfort look of the summer, feminine but strong in color, I believe the designer stepped up her game this SS2010.

Sophia Kokosalaki – The designer seemed to have gone back to her Greek roots, showing us her Spring/Summer looks that were very much goddess inspired. She was able to pull off a feminine look without turning it into the girly cliche. The vest in the first look kills me, the wrapping in the middle outfit, and the texture in the last look were things that I think represented this collection very well.

Stella McCartney – Always comfortable chic. That seems to be Stella’s staple look. She presented looks that are very easy to digest, and pieces that could be mixed and matched successfully without any sort of struggle. I guess her neutral colors work nicely together with her brights, like the last look below.

Tao – Can I just mention that there was no sewing in this collection before I continue? Great, now off to a great start in trying to explain how smart this woman is. She used binding, wrapping, twisting, knotting, and all sorts of techniques to put this collection together. The results? See for yourselves. A mix of punk and chic, brocade, lace, tulle and safety pins.

Tim Hamilton – His first collection shown in Paris, Tim Hamilton was off to a slow and confusing start. He won the Swarovski award for Menswear last year, and his SS2010 collection for women was simple, basic, nothing too out of the ordinary. I do like the use of color and materials, it shows luxury and class… but I don’t think this might be worthy of a show in Paris.

Valentino – I am usually not the biggest Valentino fan, but I thought it was amazingly refreshing to see the design duo take over and revolutionize the brand. No red?! Yeah, no red… Valentino needed some change and this was the right kind of adjustment. A bit more risky sheer, more modern and youthful Valentino is just what we were hoping for.

Véronique Leroy - Emerging designer Leroy has not been doing that well, being told that her collections are a bit overwhelming and with too many details. This time around she seemed to tone it down, with belted jackets, a neutral color palette, and very simple prints. I do have to add that all the pieces looked very nicely constructed, but that it was a little monotone when I evaluated the whole show.

Viktor & Rolf - These two men have made a living out of making us think outside of the box… They have now chopped off infinite layers of tulle in order to laugh at the term “cutting costs and unnecessary spending”. As I scrolled from one image to another, I couldn’t help but scream a little! So ingenious and never safe, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have managed to shock us once again.

Vivienne Westwood – She decided to manifest her ideals on the runway, with “eco-friendly, go green” signs that were literally worn by the models, pinned just as if they were running a marathon in order to save our environment. Aside from that, the whole show was very characteristic of Westwood’s shapes and silhouettes.

Wunderkind – I scratch my head as I try to explain what this collection was about… Yes, I see the peasant dresses and how those might have come to exist. But the continuous use of arrows pointing at the breasts, all color-blocked and in red, white, blue, and white? Hm.. I still wonder.

Yohji Yamamoto – SS2010 was a lot less conceptual than the usual Yohji we are so used to experiencing. It has been on the news, the company is not doing so well. I guess the easier to wear pieces are a call for those who are looking for a more toned down Yohji that reaches out to a broader market. Nevertheless, I still believe these pieces were amazing.

Yves Saint Laurent – There was something very odd going on at YSL this season, and that is the clashing (not the good kind) of themes in one collection. I was shocked to see strawberry printed skirts alongside leather skirts and vests and tailored suits.

Back to Life.is/fashion

Also, if you want to read more: NY Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week.

Duro Olowu – Even though this was a small collection, it was very to-the-point. The key pieces that this brand produced are smart and wearable, using colors that are bright and cheerful, but keeping a very steady tone of young sophistication. I loved these two looks.

Charles Anastase – definitely more abstract and experimental than his past collections, Charles Anastase said he used Yoko Ono’s quote that reads: “John’s something more abstract.” There was a certain degree of innocent goth that the clothes carried, somehow, he was able to connect these two concepts.

Basso & Brooke – kings of digital prints, the British duo wanted to go back  to their neo-pop inspirations. They mixed cool silhouettes with interesting color palettes. Definitely caught my eye.

Fashion East – Another brand that has begun to experiment with digital design on textiles, which turned out in a pretty cool result. I see different shapes and possible Art Deco architectural influences? I think so. Interesting new changes since textile designer, Holy Fulton, joined the team.

Jaeger London – a mix of sophistication and youth? Style.com reported that Jaeger London was the brand to go to if you are a woman who is usually on the go… but it seems that this time around, there isn’t much cohesiveness  to the whole collection. I do remember seeing onesies, and other not so on-the-go pieces. Who knows what they were thinking? I did enjoy these two looks, they are actually nicely put together and thought out.

Josh Goot - this collection wasn’t all that varied to be honest, it showed short, broad-shouldered dresses in airbrushed fabrics. Totally wearable, these dresses could be easily thrown on with a leather jacket after a day of running around and be ready to get out the door.

Julien Macdonald - an obvious scuba influence was seen this season at Julien Macdonald. Something about the skin-tight, yet surprisingly comfortable looking suits and dresses, some color blocked, that gave the designer away. I liked the variation a lot, there was something for every kind of woman, as you can see from the looks I chose.

Mary Katrantzou – London was definitely hit with a computer-designed-textiles wave and, judging by what I saw this season, the designer seemed to be more comfortable with experimenting. Using designs that emphasize curves, waves, and any sort of free-flowing movement. Needless to say, this was one successful collection.

Vivienne Westwood (Red Label) – it has come to the media attention that Vivienne Westwood doesn’t seem to have anything to do with her Red Label… and it seems that this brand’s adaptation of the Westwood looks aren’t all that bad. With young socialities waiting on front row to watch Pixie Geldof model, there seems to be a growing clientele who repeatedly wants more. Whoever is familiar with Westwood’s work, can easily point out how the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.

Matthew Williamson - the brand celebrated its 25th anniversary this season, and has seemingly evolved into an established designer fashion house. Williamson took some time off in New York to polish his design skills apparently, because this season he presented a younger, slicker mix of textures, tailoring, appliques, and bright accent colors like the ones shown below.

Burberry Prorsum - known for their trenchcoats, it seems that Burberry wanted to give hope to the young London customers that have become fans of the brand: Emma Watson, Mary-Kate Olsen, Daisy Lowe, and others. Christopher Bailey made some changes to the brand’s classic image, his collection was all shorter, more modern, textured, glamorous, and draped.

SEE NY FASHION WEEK

SEE MILAN FASHION WEEK

The video was set to stream live on SHOWstudio.com, Nick Knight’s studio site. In this short film, you can see Raquel Zimmermann, naked, snakes, sand… great images in tune with the collection. Visual and sound go hand in hand.

Watch the full Spring/Summer 2010 Collection Video

Can we talk about the shoes? I don’t know whether to call them shoes, or sculptures, or aliens, or whatever it is that this man thought of (or was on) when coming up with those. Who can we see walking the streets of Paris with these on?

Hope it tickled your brain as much as it tickled mine.

Here are some of the looks that impressed me the most. Take into consideration that I have gone through 30 collections and every look featured in them… Here you can find my review for Milan Fashion Week as well

3.1 Phillip Lim – a combination of soft colors, a mix of textures, pleats, ruffles… all put together into a series of cocktail dresses and light-weight suits that are proof that there are still designers who believe in quality over quantity. Keyword: collage.

Alexander Wang – always a genius with materials, Wang put together a collection that featured mostly neutral colors used intelligently with intricate silhouettes and shapes. The construction details are admirable, as he featured higher waistbands and off-the-shoulder irregular dresses that are to die for.

Alexandre Herchcovitch – Something I could have seen coming down the runway in London Fashion Week without a doubt. His use of color and digital prints is otherworldly. Not only he mastered color, but he took his silhouettes to a next level. He said he was inspired by football and uniforms. He admired how a man’s silhouette changes when the equipment comes on and off.

Badgley Mischka – Said to have a tropical glamour influence, the designer pair wanted to come up with a group of classy looks. Light-weight fabrics, in solid colors and very few but key embellishments set the right tone for their SS10.

Betsey Johnson – always crazy, always very in-your-face. Betsey moved her show uptown to the Plaza and stepped her game up as well. She went for classier instead of classic Betsey… a sales technique for reaching a higher market I suppose. Not entirely impressive, but then again she is known for a certain product. She can only step so far out of her consumer’s taste…

Bibhu Mohapatra – still considered an emerging designer, Spring/Summer was this brand’s second collection. Said to be inspired by visibility (triggered by the designer’s need to get radiology work done), Mohapatra still played with different fabrics: he mixes mettalics and structure, with flow-y chiffons and square appliques.

Boy by Band of Outsiders – What the cool kids wear. This was my reaction when going through the different looks represented in SS2010. Providing looks for both men and women, the brand has put together a series of edgy chic looks that could pass for androgynous.

Calvin Klein – Francisco Costa seems to be moving away from his previous signature looks. The structured and futuristic looks are now replaced by more free-flowing pieces. Still mostly minimal, but introducing more construction details… CK was able to show me different and interesting textures that I had been longing to see.

Carolina Herrera – said to be inspired by the shapes seen in woven Japanese baskets, Herrera had created this sort of intrigue amongst fans and followers. Always at her best, she showed what she knows very well how to do: the definition of class and luxury. This time around, she decided to go younger and more contemporary. I approve.

Derek Lam – he had not used lots of color in his previous collections, but WHY? He seems to have mixed it so well. Channeling a previous era, almost retro looking and with a bit of nostalgia. Sundresses, blazers, shorts, cropped jackets. stripes, stars… all of this and he made it genuinely work.

Doo.ri – inpired by a metal installation called My Wish Is Under Netting, this collection seemed more edgy than the previous ones presented by Doo-Ri Chung. Instead of the usual delicate pants and dresses, there was netting and even chains. Interesting to see how most of the looks were in grays.

Erin Wasson x RVCA – model turned designer Erin Wasson went from rocker chick to a more laid back, hippie look (not surprising considering who is designing). I wasn’t too inspired or surprised by what I saw, but these two looks definitely put a smile on my face. Loved how they played with straps of fabric on what seems to be a floor length vest split in different panels.

Helmut Lang – I seem to be seeing different versions of Rad Hourani designs all over the place. Yeah, he might not have been the first one to offer draped collars… but he was the one who made them a fashion-forward-household trend. Somehow it does not seem to bother me that much, because I simply loved how Helmut Lang used the concept in this SS2010 collection. All in different shades of gray, black and white and using ombre and draping to give different effects.

Herve Leger – Finally saw something different in a Herve Leger collection! I was simply getting tired of Max Azria’s impossible-to-pull-off, skin-tight dresses that I kept seeing on every spoiled brat out there. I am happy to see that he has stepped into other areas of design, even though it might be a little more BCBG than before.

Jeremy Laing – He went drape-crazy for SS2010… but it works. Using trims on the edges, or geometric prints and panels to fool the eye into believe there is actually more intricate work to his pieces. I can’t seem to care; whatever he did, he did it well. The last two looks were great, with the square appliques, gave his slick looks a bit more structure and modernism.

L.A.M.B. – Love, Angel, Music, Baby. I think it’s safe to say that Stefani did it again. A mix of angles, soft draping, irregular tops and harem pants. She presented a collection that was very wearable and easy to dress up or down.

Malandrino – She presented a collection inspired by different cultures around the world. Using similar silhouettes for the whole collection, the only thing that mostly changed was color. Even though it wasn’t something breathtaking, I believe she managed to accomplish her goal: safe and easy looks, separates that can be effortlessly mixed and matched.

Marc by Marc Jacobs (women’s) – Marc Jacobs’ little sister line seems to be growing after her. Loads of color, hints of neon here and there (anyone remember MJ’s FW09?), and looks that vary from daytime to nighttime. A whole closet of opportunities in one collection. The man managed to dazzle us once again.

Marc by Marc Jacobs (men’s) – One word: layering. Semi-ethnic printed vests and sweaters over basic tees were all over his Men’s looks. There was a little bit of everything like there was for women. He provided everyday looks, with cuffed pants… something you could walk around the city in. But the jackets! Beautifully tailored, over printed button-down shirts, a nice combo of class and a party look.

Marc Jacobs – Moving away from his last collection that featured neons and was reminiscent of the old New York party scene, Marc Jacobs designed this collection based on the other 80s: the delicate, ballet, feminine side of that era. The colors are way softer, and there are Japanese influences, loads of voluminous ruffles.

Marchesa – Madame Butterfly inspired gowns were shown at Marchesa. Georgina Chapman seems to have established herself as the Red Carpet designer, and has not ceased to show sculpture-like designs that keep her clients coming back for more. Recent celebs seen wearing Chapman’s pieces of art are Penelope Cruz, Diane Kruger, Kate Beckinsale, Rachel Weisz, and others.

Oscar De La Renta – it seems like the recession has not hit Oscar, and if it has, he has undoubtedly chosen to ignore it. How could he step down from his amazing world of luxury and class? It has been his staple all along. Plenty of detailing and embellishment to go around at his SS2010 show.

Rag & Bone (women’s) – designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright said that they decided to use the recession to their advantage and decided to go for their classic R&B look. English military-school, easy to throw on separates that just look great layered over one another. Colors are neutral and classic, which makes SS2010 flow effortlessly and seem easy to wear, as you see below.

Rag & Bone (men’s) – Key pieces that every man should have in his closet. This is what R&B’s men’s looks represented. Button-downs, vests, military inspired jackets were all nicely tailored. Even though there was a lot of gray, it sticks to what this brand is all about.

Rodarte – Amazing? Yes. This goth inspired collection was creative, well constructed, varied, and mixed past and future. Not necessarily something that is entirely wearable, I have to say… but a little more theatrical, and fusing something that might have come out of The Matrix, mixed with a 7os punk look and a huge portion of old goth clothing.

Y-3 – Sportswear to the tee. Models in all-black outfits with different countries’ flags marched down the runway, looking more comfortable than anyone sitting there and watching would look. The other looks were equally laid back and relaxed, looking like the clothes had been thrown on without any effort or planning.

Yigal Azrouël (women’s) – Going for less layered and more structured was the designer’s goal for this season. He showed cut-out tops that had a nice drape to them, as well as tailored jackets that he is so well-known for. I was able to spot more basic pieces, almost sheer and DIY-like, and distinguish, from those, his signature pieces.

Yigal Azrouël (men’s) – Men’s and women’s looks went hand in hand. Basic separates, that looked like DIY projects with fine fabrics, were layered with leather, hooded vests. Relaxed looks altogether, as you can see. No one seems to be going the tailored suit way for Spring/Summer… then again, who does?

Zac Posen – color-blocked, sassy, and younger dresses and suits were displayed at the Zac Posen show. Full of bright colors: yellow, pink, green… he was able to mix texture and color, prints and solids, classic and conservative with funky and fresh. Big ups to Posen for being able to pull off such a varied collection in one show.

STAY TUNED FOR LONDON..  CLICK HERE TO GO BACK TO MILAN

Nevertheless, I have been able to keep up with what has been going on in the fashion world. Things have been exciting, starting with Mercedez-Benz New York Fashion Week, moved on to London Fashion Week, and now Milan… as we all know, Paris is the final chapter to this Spring/Summer novel that we fall in love with every year.

OR you can click here to read NYFW review.

Milan is known for being a fashion showcase of prints. Designer houses like Pucci, Missoni, Moschino, have all upgraded their signature prints and taken them to the next level, making their collections new-decade friendly. From the shows I have reviewed  I have to say I see change in Milan, it has began to lose its usual flow-y, safe trends and started to take more risks. While I am not a fan of prints and most of my designs aren’t printed, I can appreciate good graphics when I see them. There are designers whose work I enjoyed, these are some worth mentioning:

Pucci

Iceberg

Gucci

Moschino

Pollini

Versace

Dior

Jil Sander

Prada

Missoni

Emporio Armani

Gianfranco Ferre

Gabriele Colangelo

Fendi

Starting at 6PM today (Thursday, September 17th) at Style Lab Miami, we will be able to check out Trunk Threads. For those who do not know about this project, Trunk Threads is a traveling monthly trunk show from cutting edge designers for shoppers and fashionistas alike. There, you will be able to see pieces from over 10 Miami-based designers who will be having one of a kind pieces at special pricing. This is the one opportunity to own something that only you will wear out, and not every other girl out on a Friday night.

Come shop at Style Lab, along with 944 Magazine, and some of the designers like Rella, Suzanne Dunn, Gold Saturn, Deluz, Bluefish, Nazly Villamizar, Krelwear, Living Dolls Vintage, Shop Bar, Fournier, and others. The music will be provided by my dear friend Ray Milian and Heather Holiday, and I guarantee cocktails. What is a fashion night out without drinks anyway?

Trunk Threads will be making pit stops at different spots in the city within the next months, so stay tuned and up to date through their website, http://www.trunkthreadsmiami.com

Style Lab is located at 5580 N.E 4th Court Ave. Miami, FL (in between Soyka and The News)