-Diana Peron

Shot by Craig McDean, art direction by Fabien Baron, Karl Temper as stylist, and music by the XX remixed by Flufftronix.

The latest designer to join forces with the accessible-fashion giant is Mark Fast, a British knitwear genius who is also known for being one of the first to send curvy models down the runway during London Fashion Week back when showcasing his Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Controversial? Yes. Effective? Yes.

Many may go as far as to call the five pieces a collection, some may not, but one thing is for sure: these pieces are beautiful. Knitted mini dresses and very precise beadwork make this a not-so-affordable collection though, since prices range from $160-$370. This is a high end collaboration and craftsmanship, but let’s not forget what kind of customer walks into TOPSHOP; the price is higher but I know the pieces will sell. Once you see for yourself, you’ll want to get your hands on one of these knitted beauties.

Menswear is back! Paris and Milan were filled with good-looking men and the latest collections for Spring 2011.

It seems that menswear has become synonymous with heritage. Every collection is like a history lesson and timeline through each design houses archives. The silhouettes and designs are like artifacts; iconic and classic yet modified with a modern day twist.  Leather and knits seem to be very popular throughout the collections and every designer seems to be in agreement that monochromatic is the overall look. However, another trend that seems to be promising is color blocking.

Whatever fashion trend you boys decide to go with is up to you, but please do study these style notes…we’ll be watching!

Alexander McQueen

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Calvin Klein Collection

Comme des Garcons

Costume National

D&G

Dolce & Gabbana

Emporio Armani

Ermenegildo Zegna

Giorgio Armani

Givenchy

Gucci

Iceberg

Jil Sander

John Galliano

John Varvatos

Junya Wantabe

Kris Van Assche

Marni

Neil Barrett

Prada

Pringle of Scotland

Salvatore Ferragamo

Trussardi 1911

Versace

Z Zegna

By Diana Peron

3.1 Phillip Lim

Alexander Wang

Balenciaga

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Calvin Klein

Celine

Doo.Ri

Givenchy

J.Mendel

Lanvin

Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs

Michael Angel

Nina Ricci

Ports 1961

Preen

Proenza Schouler

Stella McCartney

The Row

Valentino

Yves Saint Laurent

By Diana Peron

The 2011 Cruise Collections are rolling in and Burberry Prorsum is in the lead. Christopher Bailey achieved a scruffy yet luxurious look with his ruched fabrics and washed leathers. This remarkable collection is no doubted inspired by traditional military shapes and hardware.

Stretch fabrics, crocheted cotton slip dresses, trench coats and wide belts are accompanied by thigh high boots sure to make any woman feel sexy and look sizzling in these scorching creations. The collection is completed with striking 30’s and 40’s military inspired looks for the men.

The rest of the cruise collections are swaggering in and ill give you the top picks for the 2011 Cruise season. Who will sink and who will swim?

By: Diana Peron

Photographs: Style.com

As a child in the seventies Karl Lagerfeld spent many  summers in Saint Tropez, which became the ideal location for his most recent Chanel extravaganza. The Chanel 2010/11 Cruise Collection Show was held May 11 in the Old Port in St.-Tropez where celebrities and fashion insiders were treated to an ultra-glam presentation.

Young, fun and chic both the collection and presentation were a breath of fresh air.  The sidewalk outside a patisserie made for a makeshift runway; making it crystal clear that in true Chanel style this would be no ordinary show. Models arrived by yacht with a quilted bag in one hand and heels in the other as they strolled down the ‘runway’ barefoot. The usual robotic attitudes and lack of emotion we usually see from these super models were replaced by charisma and theatrics. Encouraged to be themselves they mischievously walked down the sidewalk and through the patisserie with a hint of flirtation and confidence.

Master of design and innovation Karl Lagerfeld manages to inspire and create the trends for every season. As temperatures drop and vacations begin you can expect to see more playful and feminine trends come about. With ingredients like pale colors, organza, appliqué, tweed, and denim he cooked up a delicious collection that is sure to arouse the free-spirited jet setter  in all of us and keep us craving for more.

CHANEL Cruise 2011

Georgia May Jagger and Sébastien Jondeau

By: Diana Peron

Photographs: Style.com

Photos via Style.com

Gianfranco Ferre was the big surprise, showing a new, edgier face with clean and sophisticated lines and throwing fur in the mix. Givenchy kept it effective, with separates that could easily be dubbed as timeless. Hermes’ color scheme blew my mind, with the turtlenecks and the use of velvet to perfection… Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano took the term ‘Fashion Show’ to the next level: JPG was all about boxing and Galliano went all out with Sherlock Holmes and Asian inspirations. I was a big fan of Lanvin’s fluidity in materials, with subtle drapery and mixed tailoring.

I was anxious to see what Maison Martin Margiela would bring to the table, since Margiela finally stepped down from the designer throne. What can I say… big disappointment. Too simple for the brand’s image and reputation. On the plus side, Neil Barrett made my ‘downtown boy’ dreams come true with the black and white ensembles. Rick Owens dazzled me, again, by designing irregular capes, dropped crotch pants, and an exceptional use of leather. Finally, Viktor & Rolf get my vote in the “Who can make the nerd look his best” competition.

And I leave you all with my final saying: PLEASE, no more snowboarding/skiing gear on the runways. I beg you, designers.

John Galliano

Gianfranco Ferre

Givenchy

Hermès

Iceberg

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jil Sander

Junya Watanabe

Kris Van Assche

Lanvin

Louis Vuitton

Maison Martin Margiela

Alexander McQueen

Moncler Gamme Bleu (Thom Browne)

Neil Barrett

Prada

Pringle of Scotland

Raf Simons

Rick Owens

Tim Hamilton

Versace

Viktor & Rolf

Yves Saint Laurent

Z Zegna

The colors are classic. A large variety of warm grays, black of course, and some bold color accents that make the pieces stand out. My favorites? The roughness in Ann Demeulemeester, the classic Burberry Prorsum look, laid back sophistication at Dior Homme, the separates at Dries Van Noten, and the mix of proportions at Etro.

Agnes B

Ann Demeulemeester

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Canali

Comme Des Garçons

Costume National

D&G

D-Squared

Dior Homme

Dolce & Gabbana

Dries Van Noten

Emporio Armani

Etro

Salvatore Ferragamo

The event took place at Addict, a store that mostly sells designer sneakers and activewear for both men and women. The designer was there to promote his new line for Adidas Originals.

Jeremy was extremely nice, and was meeting with friends Amanda Blank and Solange Knowles at the store. Turns out, I ran into him later that week at Rokbar for the I Art NY party, surprised, he said: ‘Hiii Barbieeee!” Good times. I got to chatting with Sophia Lamar, who I had met at B-bar already, along with Peter Miszuk (Stylesightings).

Here are a few looks from Jeremy Scott for Adidas Originals. Eclectic prints and bright colors, loads of imagination. This is Jeremy’s world.

Mr. Scott at ADDICT

The collection consists of graphic tees, hoodies, sneakers, and the usual Adidas track jacket.

To shop, go here: Adidas Originals Online Store

Now, let me just explain to whoever is reading and does not understand the concept of a knit: a knit is usually used for less tailored garments with fabrics that have stretch. Backlund started experimenting with three dimensional planes and was able to achieve great volume that works in great ways. Her designs are sculptured, and show Backlund’s amazing knitwear skills, as well as her extensively creative mind.

She took part in the Festival de Hyéres and has been featured in many magazines, including Vogue Nippon, Dazed and Confused, Another Magazine, Vogue Italia, Big Magazine, i-D, V Magazine, and others. Yet, I wonder… How come Miami’s fashionistas have missed this? I admit, first  time I saw this, I was blown away by the volume and Backlund’s ability to experiment with wool and construct spectacular pieces from scratch. Did I mention all of this is handmade?

Here are some of my favorites from the current collection, Control – C, and previous ones. Enjoy.

Control – C

Pool Position

Last Breath Bruises

In No Time

Ink Blot Test

Don’t Walk

Diamond Cut Diamond

Perfect Hurts

Blank Page

Body Skin and Hair

When I asked her what she was wearing, I was happy to learn that she supports Argentina’s emerging designers, Eufemia. Here she is, wearing Eufemia Summer 2010, and Ricky Sarkany shoes, which, she said “They’re so cool! The heel is removable so you can swap it for another color.”

Where to shop: Eufemia Buenos Aires, Ricky Sarkany

Back View

On Wednesday, I attended the Nicole Miller party at her boutique on 656 Collins Ave., where the press and whatever industry members are available were meeting for early cocktails and chit-chat. It was a nice environment since Miller, the designer, made a personal appearance and was in fact very social and approachable.

I got my pass, which was after all, all I had gone there for, and headed to the Eden Roc. GenArt was throwing its own little bash, and I met up with fellow Life.is writer Stian and some other friends. There were definitely more familiar faces and, shall I say, more people having fun? It must have been the Stoli open bar, or maybe Ray Milian DJing, or maybe just the laid back atmosphere, that kept the party going. I had the pleasure of hanging out with one half of the ShopBar team and then decided to take off to the Setai.

My third location for the night was a bit more chaotic. You could feel the Funkshion in the air, as the door people struggled to keep it under control and while many, myself included, wanted to get in because we actually HAD to be there. Anyway, after a few minutes, I was in. I guess I had forgotten all about the hot and sticky Miami weather while indoors at the Eden Roc, because when I got to Setai and walked outside to grab a spot, I almost died. Bad location for an extended summer, you guys. It was a mixture of body heat, lighting equipment, and just plain 80-something degree weather. One could tell that they all just wanted to see Pam Anderson, because I am pretty sure that only about half the people there had a clue of who Richie Rich is. Nevertheless, we all gathered to experience the launch of Rich’s new line, A*MUSE.

Show started not too late, although it was delayed, but we all knew that would happen. From a designer’s point of view? Hmmm, how can I be gentle about this? It wasn’t Paris, but I never expected it to be. There were a few glimpses of cool looks here and there, including a (very) bright pink sweetheart dress with a tutu under it. But that hasn’t been done before… It was all very Miami, if I dare say, but it was a show indeed. That first half of the show featured women in boy-shorts and summer dresses, and boys in what seemed to be tights; yes, tights. Second half was all about the eye candy: men with CAUTION tape wrapped around a leg or arm. The swim shorts? I think it’s safe to say that I was not very A*mused, something I would see a very muscular, very sure of his sexuality kind of guy wearing to the beach on a Saturday afternoon.

(REALLY?)

Finally, the moment they were all waiting for: Pam walks out in full on Baywatch get-up and a mask on, for some odd reason… maybe she thought we wouldn’t recognize her. Smart move. She starts trotting, or jumping, or whatever it is that she was doing. A few seconds later, she is joined by Richie, who I kinda enjoyed seeing. It might have been the skates or his all-around “I’m a proud gay man” attitude (which makes me like him a little more). They hugged as confetti dropped, danced around, took some pictures, and that was it.

A second after it was over, half the crowd was indoors already. I was happy when I got to go backstage and ran into the guys from Prive Salons, who had done the hair for the show. Here they are, all happy and feeling accomplished.

Some of the models…

Fun times… considering what I had to go through. The weekend is finally here, so I am going to give this whole Funkshion thing another try. Tonight I’ll be at BASS Museum of Art, and then later at the Setai again. Hope to see you all there!

If you also want to read about the other cities: NEW YORK, MILAN, LONDON

Balenciaga – It has become a habit for us to see Nicolas Ghesquière sweep us off our feet each and every season. This time around, he took the concept of luxury and sportswear and came up with an amazing collection of separates. It was color blocked, intelligently put together, and it featured leather hoodies, long sleeve mini-dresses, and skin tight skinny pants.

Balmain – I have to admit, it was tough to decide on just three looks out of Christophe Decarnin’s collection for Balmain… most of the clothes shown were stunning, wearable, and targeted pretty much to any woman with a passion for looking good. Much like Balenciaga, this collection was smart: separates and easy-to-wear mini dresses.

Chanel – The whole barn theme has been done the wrong way so many times before, but Lagerfeld managed to transform Grand Palais into a giant sea of hay in which models walked around and showed the beautiful creations that the house of Chanel put together for Spring/Summer 2010. Most of these in ivory, white, black, usually with opposing textures and exquisitely made and styled. The designer even showed some men’s looks which matched with the female models what wearing.

Chloe – Yawn… I am not the Chloe girl they are targeting obviously. Yeah, the clothes are pretty too look at, they are nice color palettes, but where is the innovation? The only two looks that I truly liked and thought were worth to write about were these, because it looks like something wearable and an easily sold outfit.

Comme Des Garçons –  All hail the Queen of conceptualism! Rei Kawakubo showed me once again why I keep checking out her collections. She is interesting, innovative, and always has something to surprise us. This time, she sent out models in clownish do’s, black leather shoulder braces, patchwork, intricate construction… you name it.

Costume National - Beautiful pieces were sent down the runway. These were looks inspired by the tougher girl and made for the uptown women who want a downtown look. These two looks stood out: Brown leather, finally, instead of the already-seen-everywhere black? Yes, please. And can you appreciate the gorgeous flow in this dress?

Dries Van Noten – This collection seemed like a disappointment for many, being that Dries Van Noten had found himself being highly influential for the past two seasons… but not for me. I seem to reject all sorts of printed fabrics, but this guy nailed it. The ethnic theme just worked for me, especially with the layering of different patterns and prints that clash amongst one another.

Gareth Pugh – For SS2010, it seems like the designer took the brutality down a notch or two. The materials seemed lighter and softer, and it was all nicely made in different shades of gray. Pugh used his usual structured techniques but softened the tops up with some flowing skirts, that seemed to be detachable as well. Zippers were widely used, but that’s his kind of thing… and what makes him what he is today.

Givenchy - After the immense success that the last Couture collection had, I had very high expectations for Riccardo Tisci’s SS2010 show. It’s obvious, he has brought Givenchy back on the map and established himself as one of Paris’ leaders. Being a fan of solid fabrics, I have to admit that these prints are amazing! I don’t think I can use words to describe how amazing this collection was, but the wrapping, twisting, draping, layering and overall executing of every piece was fab.

Haider Ackermann – I’ve been a Haider fan since he emerged in the fashion world with his floor-length skirts and beautifully crafted leather jackets and I have to say, he has yet to disappoint. SS2010 for Haider Ackermann will still carry that luxurious sportswear look, remove the extensive use of leather and add wrapped tops and bolero jackets. To die for.

Ann Demeulemeester - A different collection from what she had brought to the runways before. This time I saw more bare skin, but the detailing was beyond genius. Draped lapels made out of zippers? Leather vests that haunted my dreams… no joke. I am kind of glad that she decided to include some sort of print this collection, it shows her ability to change and adapt, since up until now, Demeulemeester was known for her ultimate minimalism.

Jean Paul Gaultier - It is more than evident, SS2010 will bring lingerie back, and Jean Paul being the man behind Madonna’s cone-bra, he deserves to indulge in this trend. It wasn’t subtle and it wasn’t all that classy, I have to admit, but after I looked at the pieces separately I noticed that he was not completely out of it. His collection made sense, the pieces were mostly wearable, and yes, he can still pull a cone-bra and get away with it.

Ungaro – OK, what were these people thinking when they hired La Lohan to team up with Estrella Archs and add a youthful touch to the brand? FAIL. I can’t really explain how this was so wrong in so many different levels… but the fact that I chose only two looks, white and plain, as highlights, that just says it all. The fabrics looked inexpensive, a bandeau with hearts, poorly draped necklines, skimpy little dresses, bad color combinations… I could go on forever. I am positive that coke-fiend Lindsay will not last long.

Giambattista Valli - This collection made me become a fan of his. Why? Because he showed such a broad spectrum of pieces. There were cocoon coats, textured mini-dresses, clean-cut separates, and LOADS of fringes (PS, I usually hate fringes). Two thumbs up.

Isabel Marant – at her show, it was all about those key pieces that will make your wardrobe shine without having to buy massive amounts of clothing. A jacket here, a pair of pants there, and you can find yourself with items that could be easily worn with anything, at anytime, for any ocassion.

Junya Watanabe – Just as every other designer is bringing back the lingerie and biker chick look, Junya decided to go classic. Thank you! The designer showed everything from tailored men’s jackets, to slim pants, to these two dresses that caught my eye. She took construction to a whole new level with these shirt-dresses pair over simple black tights. I also appreciate the lack of distractions: no complicated shoes, no overwhelming jewelry, just straight up design, materials, and execution.

Karl Lagerfeld – He’s always ingenious and finds ways to surprise us with something nice. But I think that this time around, I just wasn’t that impressed. Yes, there were gorgeous outfits, but I believe it was too flat. Nothing made me gasp and try to reach for a respirator, no wow pieces. I chose these three looks that represented the whole collection, as you guys can see, nothing too new or exciting. Just pretty.

Lanvin – Lanvin, on the other hand, oh wow. I can’t count the number of times that I squealed while watching this show. It was even very hard to narrow down the looks to just three. The show begun with the classic Lanvin dress (one-shouldered, satin, the definition of class), but then came the red ruffles, the asymmetrical necklines, the beautifully draped jumpsuits, and the textured fabrics layered with more textured fabrics. There is a God, his name is Alber Elbaz!

Louis Vuitton - Deconstruction? Oversized shoulders? Multi-layered skirts? Furry sandals? Tassels? Some ethnic influences, but what’s with the afro? Whatever Marc Jacobs was going for, I clearly do not understand. Now I’m not saying this was ugly or unsuccessful, I have to say that it was way too over the place for my taste.

Maison Martin Margiela - I was very sad to learn that Margiela finally left MMM, after Diesel bought the company and decided to make some changes. This collection was proof. I did not see the Margiela that blew me away in past collections, highly avant-garde and conceptual. This time around, MMM showed something – gasp! – wearable. Still looks that I loved, but a lot more concrete than expected. I guess that’s Diesel’s way of taking over.

Nina Ricci - The brand had been experiencing some important changes, since Olivier Theyskens has left and the British Peter Copping took over (He designed for LV for years). With that background information, I do believe that this was a successful collection. He got to Nina Ricci right in the nick of time: femininity, delicate lace pieces, tiered skirts, all nicely done in a soft color palette was seen throughout the show.

Rick Owens – Oh, how can I be partial? OK, here I go. Rick Owens, known for his usual darkness in both concept and palette, lightened things up for a change… and I thought I would never live to see the day this happened successfully: the man did it. Highly modern pieces like those featured below are the reason why I believe that in the future, this world will be ruled by designers such as Rick and Gareth. Beautiful, amazing… I’m starting my Hannukah gift list.

Alexander McQueen – Well, for anyone that has already checked out my post on this show… I don’t need to explain how mind-blowing this was. For those of you who didn’t, click here to see it. Have you ever been underwater and seen a whole new world of creatures, color combinations, shapes, textures, sounds, and emotions? If you haven’t, then you obviously have not seen McQueen’s SS2010.

Sharon Wauchob - She seems to have really grasped the concept of trends. The drop-crotch pants that were seen in every designer’s collection were shown in silk, while the broad shoulders were nicely executed in dresses and jackets, mixing lace and other materials to make what was a collection of very easy to wear pieces.

Sonia Rykiel -  1930s inspiration to the max. Sonya made it beautiful and fun. The yellow dress, stood out as something that I would adore to wear (and I mostly wear black), while the two piece outfit below was sexy and fun at the same time. The third look was the comfort look of the summer, feminine but strong in color, I believe the designer stepped up her game this SS2010.

Sophia Kokosalaki – The designer seemed to have gone back to her Greek roots, showing us her Spring/Summer looks that were very much goddess inspired. She was able to pull off a feminine look without turning it into the girly cliche. The vest in the first look kills me, the wrapping in the middle outfit, and the texture in the last look were things that I think represented this collection very well.

Stella McCartney – Always comfortable chic. That seems to be Stella’s staple look. She presented looks that are very easy to digest, and pieces that could be mixed and matched successfully without any sort of struggle. I guess her neutral colors work nicely together with her brights, like the last look below.

Tao – Can I just mention that there was no sewing in this collection before I continue? Great, now off to a great start in trying to explain how smart this woman is. She used binding, wrapping, twisting, knotting, and all sorts of techniques to put this collection together. The results? See for yourselves. A mix of punk and chic, brocade, lace, tulle and safety pins.

Tim Hamilton – His first collection shown in Paris, Tim Hamilton was off to a slow and confusing start. He won the Swarovski award for Menswear last year, and his SS2010 collection for women was simple, basic, nothing too out of the ordinary. I do like the use of color and materials, it shows luxury and class… but I don’t think this might be worthy of a show in Paris.

Valentino – I am usually not the biggest Valentino fan, but I thought it was amazingly refreshing to see the design duo take over and revolutionize the brand. No red?! Yeah, no red… Valentino needed some change and this was the right kind of adjustment. A bit more risky sheer, more modern and youthful Valentino is just what we were hoping for.

Véronique Leroy - Emerging designer Leroy has not been doing that well, being told that her collections are a bit overwhelming and with too many details. This time around she seemed to tone it down, with belted jackets, a neutral color palette, and very simple prints. I do have to add that all the pieces looked very nicely constructed, but that it was a little monotone when I evaluated the whole show.

Viktor & Rolf - These two men have made a living out of making us think outside of the box… They have now chopped off infinite layers of tulle in order to laugh at the term “cutting costs and unnecessary spending”. As I scrolled from one image to another, I couldn’t help but scream a little! So ingenious and never safe, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have managed to shock us once again.

Vivienne Westwood – She decided to manifest her ideals on the runway, with “eco-friendly, go green” signs that were literally worn by the models, pinned just as if they were running a marathon in order to save our environment. Aside from that, the whole show was very characteristic of Westwood’s shapes and silhouettes.

Wunderkind – I scratch my head as I try to explain what this collection was about… Yes, I see the peasant dresses and how those might have come to exist. But the continuous use of arrows pointing at the breasts, all color-blocked and in red, white, blue, and white? Hm.. I still wonder.

Yohji Yamamoto – SS2010 was a lot less conceptual than the usual Yohji we are so used to experiencing. It has been on the news, the company is not doing so well. I guess the easier to wear pieces are a call for those who are looking for a more toned down Yohji that reaches out to a broader market. Nevertheless, I still believe these pieces were amazing.

Yves Saint Laurent – There was something very odd going on at YSL this season, and that is the clashing (not the good kind) of themes in one collection. I was shocked to see strawberry printed skirts alongside leather skirts and vests and tailored suits.

Back to Life.is/fashion

Also, if you want to read more: NY Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week.

Duro Olowu – Even though this was a small collection, it was very to-the-point. The key pieces that this brand produced are smart and wearable, using colors that are bright and cheerful, but keeping a very steady tone of young sophistication. I loved these two looks.

Charles Anastase – definitely more abstract and experimental than his past collections, Charles Anastase said he used Yoko Ono’s quote that reads: “John’s something more abstract.” There was a certain degree of innocent goth that the clothes carried, somehow, he was able to connect these two concepts.

Basso & Brooke – kings of digital prints, the British duo wanted to go back  to their neo-pop inspirations. They mixed cool silhouettes with interesting color palettes. Definitely caught my eye.

Fashion East – Another brand that has begun to experiment with digital design on textiles, which turned out in a pretty cool result. I see different shapes and possible Art Deco architectural influences? I think so. Interesting new changes since textile designer, Holy Fulton, joined the team.

Jaeger London – a mix of sophistication and youth? Style.com reported that Jaeger London was the brand to go to if you are a woman who is usually on the go… but it seems that this time around, there isn’t much cohesiveness  to the whole collection. I do remember seeing onesies, and other not so on-the-go pieces. Who knows what they were thinking? I did enjoy these two looks, they are actually nicely put together and thought out.

Josh Goot - this collection wasn’t all that varied to be honest, it showed short, broad-shouldered dresses in airbrushed fabrics. Totally wearable, these dresses could be easily thrown on with a leather jacket after a day of running around and be ready to get out the door.

Julien Macdonald - an obvious scuba influence was seen this season at Julien Macdonald. Something about the skin-tight, yet surprisingly comfortable looking suits and dresses, some color blocked, that gave the designer away. I liked the variation a lot, there was something for every kind of woman, as you can see from the looks I chose.

Mary Katrantzou – London was definitely hit with a computer-designed-textiles wave and, judging by what I saw this season, the designer seemed to be more comfortable with experimenting. Using designs that emphasize curves, waves, and any sort of free-flowing movement. Needless to say, this was one successful collection.

Vivienne Westwood (Red Label) – it has come to the media attention that Vivienne Westwood doesn’t seem to have anything to do with her Red Label… and it seems that this brand’s adaptation of the Westwood looks aren’t all that bad. With young socialities waiting on front row to watch Pixie Geldof model, there seems to be a growing clientele who repeatedly wants more. Whoever is familiar with Westwood’s work, can easily point out how the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.

Matthew Williamson - the brand celebrated its 25th anniversary this season, and has seemingly evolved into an established designer fashion house. Williamson took some time off in New York to polish his design skills apparently, because this season he presented a younger, slicker mix of textures, tailoring, appliques, and bright accent colors like the ones shown below.

Burberry Prorsum - known for their trenchcoats, it seems that Burberry wanted to give hope to the young London customers that have become fans of the brand: Emma Watson, Mary-Kate Olsen, Daisy Lowe, and others. Christopher Bailey made some changes to the brand’s classic image, his collection was all shorter, more modern, textured, glamorous, and draped.

SEE NY FASHION WEEK

SEE MILAN FASHION WEEK

The video was set to stream live on SHOWstudio.com, Nick Knight’s studio site. In this short film, you can see Raquel Zimmermann, naked, snakes, sand… great images in tune with the collection. Visual and sound go hand in hand.

Watch the full Spring/Summer 2010 Collection Video

Can we talk about the shoes? I don’t know whether to call them shoes, or sculptures, or aliens, or whatever it is that this man thought of (or was on) when coming up with those. Who can we see walking the streets of Paris with these on?

Hope it tickled your brain as much as it tickled mine.

Here are some of the looks that impressed me the most. Take into consideration that I have gone through 30 collections and every look featured in them… Here you can find my review for Milan Fashion Week as well

3.1 Phillip Lim – a combination of soft colors, a mix of textures, pleats, ruffles… all put together into a series of cocktail dresses and light-weight suits that are proof that there are still designers who believe in quality over quantity. Keyword: collage.

Alexander Wang – always a genius with materials, Wang put together a collection that featured mostly neutral colors used intelligently with intricate silhouettes and shapes. The construction details are admirable, as he featured higher waistbands and off-the-shoulder irregular dresses that are to die for.

Alexandre Herchcovitch – Something I could have seen coming down the runway in London Fashion Week without a doubt. His use of color and digital prints is otherworldly. Not only he mastered color, but he took his silhouettes to a next level. He said he was inspired by football and uniforms. He admired how a man’s silhouette changes when the equipment comes on and off.

Badgley Mischka – Said to have a tropical glamour influence, the designer pair wanted to come up with a group of classy looks. Light-weight fabrics, in solid colors and very few but key embellishments set the right tone for their SS10.

Betsey Johnson – always crazy, always very in-your-face. Betsey moved her show uptown to the Plaza and stepped her game up as well. She went for classier instead of classic Betsey… a sales technique for reaching a higher market I suppose. Not entirely impressive, but then again she is known for a certain product. She can only step so far out of her consumer’s taste…

Bibhu Mohapatra – still considered an emerging designer, Spring/Summer was this brand’s second collection. Said to be inspired by visibility (triggered by the designer’s need to get radiology work done), Mohapatra still played with different fabrics: he mixes mettalics and structure, with flow-y chiffons and square appliques.

Boy by Band of Outsiders – What the cool kids wear. This was my reaction when going through the different looks represented in SS2010. Providing looks for both men and women, the brand has put together a series of edgy chic looks that could pass for androgynous.

Calvin Klein – Francisco Costa seems to be moving away from his previous signature looks. The structured and futuristic looks are now replaced by more free-flowing pieces. Still mostly minimal, but introducing more construction details… CK was able to show me different and interesting textures that I had been longing to see.

Carolina Herrera – said to be inspired by the shapes seen in woven Japanese baskets, Herrera had created this sort of intrigue amongst fans and followers. Always at her best, she showed what she knows very well how to do: the definition of class and luxury. This time around, she decided to go younger and more contemporary. I approve.

Derek Lam – he had not used lots of color in his previous collections, but WHY? He seems to have mixed it so well. Channeling a previous era, almost retro looking and with a bit of nostalgia. Sundresses, blazers, shorts, cropped jackets. stripes, stars… all of this and he made it genuinely work.

Doo.ri – inpired by a metal installation called My Wish Is Under Netting, this collection seemed more edgy than the previous ones presented by Doo-Ri Chung. Instead of the usual delicate pants and dresses, there was netting and even chains. Interesting to see how most of the looks were in grays.

Erin Wasson x RVCA – model turned designer Erin Wasson went from rocker chick to a more laid back, hippie look (not surprising considering who is designing). I wasn’t too inspired or surprised by what I saw, but these two looks definitely put a smile on my face. Loved how they played with straps of fabric on what seems to be a floor length vest split in different panels.

Helmut Lang – I seem to be seeing different versions of Rad Hourani designs all over the place. Yeah, he might not have been the first one to offer draped collars… but he was the one who made them a fashion-forward-household trend. Somehow it does not seem to bother me that much, because I simply loved how Helmut Lang used the concept in this SS2010 collection. All in different shades of gray, black and white and using ombre and draping to give different effects.

Herve Leger – Finally saw something different in a Herve Leger collection! I was simply getting tired of Max Azria’s impossible-to-pull-off, skin-tight dresses that I kept seeing on every spoiled brat out there. I am happy to see that he has stepped into other areas of design, even though it might be a little more BCBG than before.

Jeremy Laing – He went drape-crazy for SS2010… but it works. Using trims on the edges, or geometric prints and panels to fool the eye into believe there is actually more intricate work to his pieces. I can’t seem to care; whatever he did, he did it well. The last two looks were great, with the square appliques, gave his slick looks a bit more structure and modernism.

L.A.M.B. – Love, Angel, Music, Baby. I think it’s safe to say that Stefani did it again. A mix of angles, soft draping, irregular tops and harem pants. She presented a collection that was very wearable and easy to dress up or down.

Malandrino – She presented a collection inspired by different cultures around the world. Using similar silhouettes for the whole collection, the only thing that mostly changed was color. Even though it wasn’t something breathtaking, I believe she managed to accomplish her goal: safe and easy looks, separates that can be effortlessly mixed and matched.

Marc by Marc Jacobs (women’s) – Marc Jacobs’ little sister line seems to be growing after her. Loads of color, hints of neon here and there (anyone remember MJ’s FW09?), and looks that vary from daytime to nighttime. A whole closet of opportunities in one collection. The man managed to dazzle us once again.

Marc by Marc Jacobs (men’s) – One word: layering. Semi-ethnic printed vests and sweaters over basic tees were all over his Men’s looks. There was a little bit of everything like there was for women. He provided everyday looks, with cuffed pants… something you could walk around the city in. But the jackets! Beautifully tailored, over printed button-down shirts, a nice combo of class and a party look.

Marc Jacobs – Moving away from his last collection that featured neons and was reminiscent of the old New York party scene, Marc Jacobs designed this collection based on the other 80s: the delicate, ballet, feminine side of that era. The colors are way softer, and there are Japanese influences, loads of voluminous ruffles.

Marchesa – Madame Butterfly inspired gowns were shown at Marchesa. Georgina Chapman seems to have established herself as the Red Carpet designer, and has not ceased to show sculpture-like designs that keep her clients coming back for more. Recent celebs seen wearing Chapman’s pieces of art are Penelope Cruz, Diane Kruger, Kate Beckinsale, Rachel Weisz, and others.

Oscar De La Renta – it seems like the recession has not hit Oscar, and if it has, he has undoubtedly chosen to ignore it. How could he step down from his amazing world of luxury and class? It has been his staple all along. Plenty of detailing and embellishment to go around at his SS2010 show.

Rag & Bone (women’s) – designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright said that they decided to use the recession to their advantage and decided to go for their classic R&B look. English military-school, easy to throw on separates that just look great layered over one another. Colors are neutral and classic, which makes SS2010 flow effortlessly and seem easy to wear, as you see below.

Rag & Bone (men’s) – Key pieces that every man should have in his closet. This is what R&B’s men’s looks represented. Button-downs, vests, military inspired jackets were all nicely tailored. Even though there was a lot of gray, it sticks to what this brand is all about.

Rodarte – Amazing? Yes. This goth inspired collection was creative, well constructed, varied, and mixed past and future. Not necessarily something that is entirely wearable, I have to say… but a little more theatrical, and fusing something that might have come out of The Matrix, mixed with a 7os punk look and a huge portion of old goth clothing.

Y-3 – Sportswear to the tee. Models in all-black outfits with different countries’ flags marched down the runway, looking more comfortable than anyone sitting there and watching would look. The other looks were equally laid back and relaxed, looking like the clothes had been thrown on without any effort or planning.

Yigal Azrouël (women’s) – Going for less layered and more structured was the designer’s goal for this season. He showed cut-out tops that had a nice drape to them, as well as tailored jackets that he is so well-known for. I was able to spot more basic pieces, almost sheer and DIY-like, and distinguish, from those, his signature pieces.

Yigal Azrouël (men’s) – Men’s and women’s looks went hand in hand. Basic separates, that looked like DIY projects with fine fabrics, were layered with leather, hooded vests. Relaxed looks altogether, as you can see. No one seems to be going the tailored suit way for Spring/Summer… then again, who does?

Zac Posen – color-blocked, sassy, and younger dresses and suits were displayed at the Zac Posen show. Full of bright colors: yellow, pink, green… he was able to mix texture and color, prints and solids, classic and conservative with funky and fresh. Big ups to Posen for being able to pull off such a varied collection in one show.

STAY TUNED FOR LONDON..  CLICK HERE TO GO BACK TO MILAN

Nevertheless, I have been able to keep up with what has been going on in the fashion world. Things have been exciting, starting with Mercedez-Benz New York Fashion Week, moved on to London Fashion Week, and now Milan… as we all know, Paris is the final chapter to this Spring/Summer novel that we fall in love with every year.

OR you can click here to read NYFW review.

Milan is known for being a fashion showcase of prints. Designer houses like Pucci, Missoni, Moschino, have all upgraded their signature prints and taken them to the next level, making their collections new-decade friendly. From the shows I have reviewed  I have to say I see change in Milan, it has began to lose its usual flow-y, safe trends and started to take more risks. While I am not a fan of prints and most of my designs aren’t printed, I can appreciate good graphics when I see them. There are designers whose work I enjoyed, these are some worth mentioning:

Pucci

Iceberg

Gucci

Moschino

Pollini

Versace

Dior

Jil Sander

Prada

Missoni

Emporio Armani

Gianfranco Ferre

Gabriele Colangelo

Fendi

The designer barely changed the silhouettes he usually sticks with, but instead used less expensive fabrics to make this more affordable. The fact that this collection is mostly unisex is also interesting… I’m sure I will be seeing the waifish girls and size 27 boys in Rad blazers and pants. Here are some of the looks featured in the show.

From Givenchy to Jean Paul Gaultier… the world’s most amazing couturiers have shown, once again, why they do what they do.

Jean Paul Gaultier blew my mind, as usual, with tailored double breasted jackets that end with a train, geometric leotards and corsets, floor-length gowns that take your breath away, and a skillful use of fur. It would seem safe to say that the Gaultier woman is part businesswoman, part flapper, part sex kitten covered in patent leather, and, somehow, there is still room for more.

Valentino designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, have definitely stepped their game up since things started getting ugly in the fashion house. A couture collection using black lace and thinking out of the box. Couture equals larger than life, and the bigger, the better… well, here we have something big.

Another designer who managed to dazzle all of us, literally, was Givenchy. Just look at the use of jewelry in this show and how he played with shine to make his fabrics stand out. Tisci’s work in this collection is impeccable, I only allowed myself to show these four looks… I would have included all of them, but unfortunately that would make this a really long post. Research!

So, for the ones who did not know, Christian Lacroix was faced with a challenge for his collection: his company decided to cut costs and fire pretty much all his staff, leaving him with around 12 workers to put together the magic he designs. This made this show a miracle. His usual lavish and extravagant pieces were toned down, yet that does not mean that his work is less amazing than usual. Please make sure to admire the last look, the true virgin wedding gown. Art.

OH YES, more to come.

Barbie

Barbie

… and they are celebrating by creating a new brand. BLACK. This new side of CDG will be more contemporary, rougher, and will be what Rei Kawakubo has been all about throughout the years. The Comme Des Garçons designer is known for having her way with color: mostly all-black collections, with hints of red here and there.

Kawakubo has always been true to her originality, and has yet to be imitated. She creates outside of the boundaries and makes clothing that represent the CDG woman: independent, comfortable, and she likes to think outside of the box.